Growing Gunya
credits
Re-introducing the use of discarded wool and traditional dying methods
Within traditional Ukrainian weaving, colour is used as a powerful tool. Today, the dye used for this purpose often contains chemicals. However, the yarn of this traditional wool Gunya is dyed with ingredients used in a traditional Ukrainian soup called Borshch. Marjo and Dasha revived traditional ways of dying and brought this knowledge back to Ukraine.
Their collaboration tells a story about local (waste) materials, living organisms, cellulose, protein fibres, traditional dyeing methods and local weaving techniques. It is a search for potential applications for making clothes for the future.
Marjo van Schaik (re)discovered the possibilities offered by this iconic object together with Dasha Tsapenko and Ruslana Goncharuk. The traditional garment is woven using the special ‘Kozovannya’ technique on a loom with two pedals. After the Gunya is woven, it is washed in ice-cold river water. This causes the loose threads woven along with it to felt.
Marjo van Schaik used Dutch discarded wool and felted it, showing the qualities of this ‘waste’.
More information? Please contact mare@marjovanschaik.nl